1830's Day Dress: A Review

Another costume is done and dusted!

This costume has been quite a special one for me. It started off as one thing but ended up becoming something else entirely.

I started planning this costume in January 2021 after rewatching Gentleman Jack for the second time. I originally wanted to make one of Marian's dresses. In March I ordered the silk fabric. I couldn't get the fabric that was used in the show as it was no longer being made, so I chose something that I felt had a similar look to it. 

It wasn't actually until the start of June when I started working on this costume. I was feeling rather burnt out working on my RALF so I decided that I'd mix it up and use one of my days off from work a week to start on this costume. Each piece of the project had its own trial and tribulations, but looking back now, each one taught me something. That's what I've loved about every costume I've made so far, each time I learn and become a better seamstress on the other side. 

It was at this time while working on the undergarments that I came across Rebecca Alexander's portrait. This project took on a new life after I found the portrait. It was much bigger than recreating something I enjoyed looking at on a tv show, it had now become a way for me to connect with my ancestors and heritage. I will never know what it is like to live in Scotland during the 1830s but making this costume helps me feel connected to her. It helps me imagine what her life could have been like.

By the start of August, the undergarments were finished and work had begun on the gown. I was rather surprised at how quickly the gown came together. I originally had given myself a lot longer of a timeframe to make the gown, but it only took me roughly nine days of working on it. As I'm still working four days a week, these nine days were spread over a three-week period.

With the gown done and a Covid lockdown starting, the pelerine and bonnet took about three days combined. I did also make a belt to match the dress as the portrait has a belt. Now it is all finished!

The Chemise

I have to say that I still love this chemise. Whenever I've done fittings throughout the process of making the whole costume, I always stay in my chemise afterward. It is just so comfortable and cute. I absolutely will be making another one of these with all the frills for myself in the future.

Stays

I really enjoy how comfortable these stays are, even with a piece of wood down center front. I think that they are very flattering and make a nice silhouette. The main issue with them is that the center back touches when laced to my comfort. I know that there is meant to be a one to two-inch gap between the back panels when laced. In saying that, I think when they are laced closed, that is how I would prefer them laced. I wouldn't want them any tighter. Regardless, I think that 1830s stays are a great beginner's stay/corset to get a person used to wearing that kind of undergarment. I personally really like my pair of stays even if they don't quite fit right at the center back.

Corded Petticoat

What a journey this one was. This project took much longer than I had planned. I wasn't ready for how long the cording took to sew. In the end, though, I'm pretty happy with how it came out. I won't be rushing to make another one of these anytime soon, but it's definitely a necessary part to achieve the 1830s look. I think I may need to starch mine again as it has started to cave in at some points.

Sleeve Puffers

Pool arm floats to the rescue! I don't think I could ever not find these fun when I wear them. These weren't particularly hard to construct, but still very important to the overall finish of the look. I'm happy that I was able to use my fabric scraps to stuff them, but I do wonder if it has made them a bit heavy. I don't mind too much, but I've found that even when I tie them to the stay straps, over time they slowly fall down my arm. Other than that, I'm happy with them.

The Gown

This was the make-or-break garment for me. Before I started making it, I wasn't sure if I had the skills to make it like the portraits. I had never before made such big sleeves, made such a fitted bodice, or even knew where to start with making sure there was enough fabric for the neckline pleats. Thankfully there was a pattern out there that had most of what I needed. As I wrote in the post about making it, I did change the neckline pleats from the gathers they wrote. While I think the portrait has more pleats than mine, I think I did pretty well at recreating her gown. Even with the few issues I had with making the gown, I really do love it. It is very special to me and I think I'll always cherish it. Making this gown has also made me want to try my hand at an 1850s evening gown. I really like how the bodice looked before I put the sleeves on so I think I'd like an 1850s evening gown.

Pelerine

I think that this one was the quickest make of the whole project. It only took me a full day in total from conception to completion. I really like the look of it. For me, it really completes the silhouette. It was also really gratifying to make something completely on my own. This was the first time I've ever just draped something on my dress form and worked my way to a complete product. I never would have dreamed of doing that a year ago. I've still got a long way to go, but I'm slowly learning and it's exciting. 

Bonnet

I've definitely got a long way to go before I'm a master milliner, but for my third ever hat and my first ever bonnet, I've gotta pat myself on the back and say that it's not too bad. The dress, in my opinion, just looks better when I'm wearing the bonnet. 

Now that it is all finished, I just really enjoy this costume. I don't know why, but every time I've put it on, it just feels fun. I feel like I could do cartwheels and run around. There's something very youthful about it to me which is odd considering it's based on something almost 200 years old. I think I've done a pretty good job of recreating Rebecca Alexander's dress from her portrait and that is probably the thing I'm most ecstatic about. 

Thank you for coming on this journey with me. I hope you enjoyed it as much as I did. I might be a bit absent for a while as I start planning what my next costume or general sewing project will be.

Here are some extra photos.

I'll talk to you soon. Have a swell day!

-Maysie